Training Your Dog to Sit

Training your dog to "sit" is probably the first thing you will train your puppy to do. I write puppy because you can start the training as soon as the puppy has settled in his new home. You might think this isn't that important, a dog knows how to sit. Well, I think it is very important. Read on and you will found out why and how to train your dog to sit.

1. This first one is easy. You just start by saying "sit" every time the puppy sits itself. He learns to associate the word sit with the action. This is a tip you can use in all training.

2. Take out his favorite treat and keep it in your hand. Sausage usually works well but remember to cut it in small pieces so the puppy can swallow it fast.

3. Sit down on the floor so you get to the same level as the dog. You are less threatening when you sit. More important is that you are close to the dog so you can reward him faster. More about this soon.

4. Slowly move the treat over your puppy's head. The intention is to get the puppy to smell the treat (he will) and follow it with his nose. He has two options. Either back still standing or sit down. It's easier to sit down.

5 Immediately as he sits you say "sit" and give him the piece of sausage. This is the key factor to all training. The reward has to be exact in the same moment as the dog does the right thing.

6. Praise the dog. Show your joy with your voice as well as with your body language.

7. Repeat these steps 3-5 times. Not more than that though, as it has to be fun! On the other hand you can repeat the steps several times during the day.

8. In the next step you should try these steps while standing up. You can try to see if the dog reacts only to the word "sit" without your hand and the treat. If he sits down you obviously should praise him and if he doesn't don't care. You should never show your disappointment to your dog when you are training.

This is pretty easy for the puppy. In a day or two you will get him to sit with your "sit" command. Now you can try to make him sit down beside you. This is actually a preparation for the heel training. There you want him to sit as soon as you stop walking. If you have thoughts about obedience competitions with your dog you should consider the exact position where he sits and also how fast he sits. That is however off topic in this article.

The next level is to strengthen the word so you get the dog to sit in every situation no matter what's going on around him. This is an ongoing process and you should never stop training. Use every new situation to train him. Make him sit with new people, new dogs and new surroundings.

It's quite easy to train your dog to sit. If you consider not training your dog my advice is, think again. When you start training with your new puppy you get much more than the sitting part The puppy loves to do things with you. He learns to listen to his name. He gets used to training and doing things with you and on your initiative. This all together strengthen your position as the leader, and the puppy feels secure. When the puppy falls asleep in the evening his last thoughts should be: "This is really a great pack!"

Children and Dogs - a Good Combination?

It's strange how many tales we hear of dogs attacking children and yet, as a group, parents still choose to bring dogs into their families with little instruction or research.

The truth is, most families with a dog will never deal with the terrible situations we hear about on the news. Dogs love people. Most dogs love children. Children and adults love dogs and it is very doubtful that after thousands of years the connection between canine and humankind will be broken.

What does need to be considered is how to make the best possible environment for your children and dog so that you don't need to worry about unexpected tragedy.

There are many experts with various views, but several points can be generally agreed upon when bringing a dog into a household with children.

First, be sure your very young children (generally pre-school age, under six) are NEVER left unattended with a dog. It is not that your dog will suddenly choose to attack, it is that a dog - like a small child itself - will not always choose the best response when it is unintentionally harmed or threatened in play. You would not leave small children unattended in play, and so, you should not consider your dog to be more mature, but rather equal, to your child in tolerance and behavior.

Second, discourage roughhousing with the dog. Larger dogs can handle more play, such as Newfoundlanders and Old English Sheepdogs, without becoming agitated. Other large breeds may become agitated in play and accidentally harm your child. Large breeds may even knock over small children unintentionally. Obviously smaller breeds could feel endangered with rough play and feel compelled to protect themselves from harm. In all cases, roughhousing is discouraged with all breeds.

Third, have a well trained dog when you choose to have a dog as a family pet. While some trainers may feel that the owner is adequately qualified to take on this task, you may wish to consider having your dog professionally trained if possible.

Aggression can happen with even the most loving owners when incorrect training, or improper handling of the dog is not addressed early on. Choosing a fully-trained dog will give you the peace of mind you are looking for when selecting a pet for your children.

There are many other points that are important to consider when buying a dog for your family. By taking the time to understand and learn about dogs before bringing one home, you are more likely to find the life-long friend your children deserve!

I Don’t’ Like Trimming Fido’s Nails

Giving poochie a bath - no problem. You might even be ok sticking a tooth brush in Lassie’s mouth. But trimming doggie’s nails is never going to happen!

Actually, giving your dog's nails a clipping is not nearly as difficult or freighting as it seems.

Nail trimming in dogs can be done very easily if you know how. It's always a good idea to watch someone else first (vet, groomer or friend) who is experienced in nail trimming.

Some dogs never need to have their nails trimmed. Many will naturally wear the nails down or the dried ends of the nails will simply flake away without you even knowing. But some breeds, especially Basset Hounds and Dachshunds will likely need your help in keeping the toe nails reasonably short.

There will be times when you accidentally cut a nail too short. It just happens sometimes, even with experienced groomers. The nail will bleed if you cut it too short, so just be prepared for that.

Get a good nail trimmer. Ask your vet or the clerk in the pet store which kind they recommend. Place the main part of the trimmer in the palm of your hand and the moveable part so that it is controlled by your fingers. You want to be able to see the small cutting blade that slides when you squeeze the handle.

Make sure you’re not cutting from the top downward; but rather from underneath. Slide the opening over the end of the nail while staying in the whitish part of the nail. The pink area of the nail is the live part and has blood vessels throughout. Hopefully you’ll be able to see where the pink part starts.

If your pooch has dark nails you won’t be able to see any pink to know where the live part of the nail starts. Just do a little bit at a time with the dark nails. Check the end of the nail. The dead area usually is whitish and as you cut deeper into the end of the nail you will begin to see a dark area. That dark area is where the live part starts.

When you are ready to cut, make a smooth, quick squeeze on the handle while holding the trimmer steady. Don't try to "pop" the end of the nail off; it will fall away on its own. You can file the edges or just let the dog wear the nail smooth. Taking your dog for a walk on the sidewalk or street can help them file down.

Remember that at some point you will cut too short. When this happens, place a tiny piece of tissue paper tightly against the end of the nail and hold it for a few minutes. Better yet, have some cornstarch or flour available and put a small amount against the bleeding end of the nail, hold it there with your finger. This works right away. Or you can do nothing and the bleeding should stop in about five minutes. If it continues to bleed much more than that, give your vet a call.

Always remember, you can do this. Play with your canine’s feet first to get them used to the idea. If you do it once a week, it won’t seem like such a tragic event. If you can only do one paw a day, that’s ok too. Relax and enjoy your dog!

Drying the Dog

There are various pieces of drying equipment available for the professional to use. The most common being the free standing hot air blowing dryer.

Method of drying medium to long coated breeds

Having towel dried or used a blaster (if the dog will allow), place the dog on a non-slip surface, preferably attached via a lead to a hook in the wall or a frame over the table, so that the dog feels secure when the dryer is directed at him.

If the dog is used to being dried, you may start on the head so that the dog warms up quickly, however if the dog is a little timid or fidgety it is best to start from the back and work towards the front allowing him to become accustomed to it.

Pick up the hair onto a slicker brush and direct the hot air onto this (not onto the dog's body as it could be too hot), the slicker entangles and twists the hair, thus allowing the roots to dry as well as the hair on the brush. This process continues until all the hair is dry, however the key is to be systematic- only move on when the section you are working on is totally dry.

Many dryers today have two settings - many dogs need the weaker (therefore quieter) of the settings directed at them when working on their heads.

Fluff Drying Poodles, Bichon Frises and Bedlington Terriers

Having mastered the basic techniques of drying you can move on to fluff drying the curly coats. Unlike the other breeds, you do not attempt to dry as much as you can before starting to fluff dry. The secret is to towel dry one side more than the other so that the coat does not begin to dry naturally, therefore curly when working on the other side.

It is important to dry the head first on these breeds so that no hint of a curl is seen- therefore perfectly dried ready for shaping. The pom on the poodles should then be dried followed by the legs and body.

The slicker brush should be in constant motion throughout, flicking the hair in all four directions- the quicker the flick the better the result! Remember that you are not brushing to remove knots- as these should have been removed before bathing, therefore pressure is not necessary, it's the correct technique that is vital.

Do not move on until the section you are working on is thoroughly dry, for a damp curly coat will result in kinks and waves- a coat on which it is impossible to achieve a desirable finish when scissoring.

Remember when using the slicker to take care around the facial area- for the pins can quite easily scratch the eye lenses, also take care around the hocks and belly, which are sensitive and can be scratched equally easily.